The lipstick base is made by mixing the oils and waxes in varying proportions in order to obtain a desirable viscosity and melting point.
FORMULATION
OF LIPSTICKS
The lipstick base is made by mixing
the oils and waxes in varying proportions in order to obtain a desirable
viscosity and melting point.
Composition:
The
raw materials involved the formulation of the lipsticks could be as follows:
Ingredients
and Examples
The
Solid Components / Waxes :
(a)
The hydrocarbon waxes: White bees wax
(b)
The mineral waxes: Ozokerite wax,
ceresine wax
(c)
Hard waxes: Carnauba wax, candelilla
wax, hard paraffin
(d)
Micro crystalline waxes
The
Liquid Components: Mineral oils, vegetable
oils, castor oils, butylstearate,
Glycol, water, silicon-fluids, IPM (isopropyl
maleate)
The
Softening Components : Anhydrous
lanoline, lanolin cocoa
butter, lecithin,
petrolatum
The
Coloring Agents : Carmine, dyestuff stain, pigmented stain,
lakes etc.
Pearlescent
Pigments: Guanine crystals, bismuth
oxychloride
Opacifying
Agents: Titanium dioxide
Perfumeries: Rose oil, cinnamon oil, lavender oil etc.
Miscellaneous
Agents :
(a)
Preservatives: Parabens
(b)
Antioxidants: BHA, BHT, tocopherol
etc.
(c) Flavouring agents: Cinnamoniol, spearmint oil etc.
1.
The Solid Components/Waxes
The
solid components are responsible for the final structure of the product by solidifying the liquid matrix. The
materials required for attaining a reasonable body, hardness, melting point and
shrinkage necessary for the easy release of the mould are together referred to
as natural waxes.
The solid components of the
formulation are mostly natural waxes which may be classified as follows:
(a)
The
hydrocarbon waxes: Example: White bees wax
(b)
The
mineral waxes: Example: Ozokerite, ceresine
(c)
Hard
waxes: Example: Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hard paraffin etc.
(d)
Micro
crystalline waxes
(a) Hydrocarbon
Waxes :
White
Bees wax: It is a so
known as the common wax and forms the oily base in the formulation of lipsticks.
Source: It is naturally obtained
from honey combs of the honey bee Apis mellifera.
Melting Point: the ranges between 62
- 65°C.
Concentration: It is used in
concentrations of about 3-10% of the total formulation.
Available Forms: It is available in
the form of blocks, pills, slabs and cakes. The commercially available bleached
form is widely used.
Uses:
1.
It
forms an important base and is extensively used for entrapping castor oil.
2.
It
has good plastic property and can be readily deformed when it is warmed.
3.
It
is used as a traditional stiffening agent for lipsticks.
4.
It
forms a good base in the formulation of moulded products.
Advantages:
1.
It
is compatible with vegetable minerals and animal waxes.
2.
It
can be moulded into required form.
Disadvantage: When it is used at a concentration of more than 20%, it forms
a dull film on the surface of the lips.
It is usually mixed along with other waxes such as Ozokerite wax, carnauba wax
and candelilla wax.
(b)
Mineral Waxes: They are not popular and have been
replaced by the microcrystalline waxes
but still used with the same names. They are:
(i)
Ozokerite Wax:
Source: It is a type of amorphous
hydrocarbon obtained naturally, from bituminous products.
Melting Points: It is available in
various grades with melting point ranging between 56°C 82°C.
Concentration: It is used in a
concentration range of between 5 to 10%.
Uses:
1.
It
is used in order to increase the Melting point of the base.
2.
It
is also efficient in promoting the formulation of a fine crystalline wax gel
and thus ensures the maximum retention of the Oil matrix.
3.
It
can be easily transformed into required shapes.
Advantage:
It is easily available in various
grades.
Disadvantage:
It may be subjected to adulteration.
(ii)
Ceresine Wax:
Source: It is also obtained
naturally from the bituminous products like the Ozokerite wax.
Melting Point: The melting point
range is between 60-75°C.
Uses:
1.
It
is used as stiffening agents to provide firmness to the finished product.
2.
It
is used to increase melting point of the base.
(c)
The Hard Waxes: These waxes are mainly responsible
for the shape and the hardness of the
lipsticks. They include the following waxes,
(i)
Candelilla Wax:
Source: It is obtained from
Euphorbiaceae plants such a Euphorbia cerifera and Euphorbia antisyphilitica.
The extraction involves the immersing of the plant in boiling water containing
sulfuric acid and later skimming off the wax that rises to the surface.
Melting Point Its melting point
ranges between 65°C 75°C.
Uses: It
is used to increase the hardness and melting point of the product either alone
or in combination with carnauba wax.
(ii)
Carnauba Wax:
Source: It is obtained as exudates
from the pores of the leaves of the Brazilian wax palm tree Copernicia
prunifera. The extraction involves cutting, drying and heating of the leaves.
Melting Point: Its melting point ranges
between 81 to 90°C.
Available Forms: It is available in
three colors yellow, gray and brown. It is available in hard forms and soft
forms.
Uses:
1.
It
is used to provide rigidity to the stick.
2.
It
is used in modest proportion in order to ensure high melting points.
3.
It
helps in moulding by shrinking the stick away from the surface of the mould in
order to aid easy removal.
Disadvantage:
It is not miscible with the other
waxes and remain as a separate solid phase
due to its high melting point.
(iii)
Hard Paraffin:
Source: It may be present as a
purified blend of several solid Hydrocarbon bases that are obtained from
petroleum.
Melting Point: Its melting point
ranges between 55° C - 65°C.
Uses:
1.
It
is occasionally used in minor quantities to improve the gloss of the finished
products.
2.
Imparts
rigidity to the product.
Disadvantage:
It has limited solubility in the
castor oil and hence doesn't dissolve and may provide a greasy look.
(d)
Microcrystalline Waxes: They are the hydrocarbons containing
a long carbon chain. Melting Point:
They have wide melting points ranging between 60°C to 120°C.
Uses:
They help in maintaining the crystal
structure of the lipstick and hence may prevent the sweating.
Disadvantage:
They possess low solubility in the
castor oil.
2.
The Liquid Components:
The
liquid components are mostly constituted by the oils such as mineral oil, vegetable oil, castor oil, alcohol etc. The
properties of the oils should be as follows:
(i)
It
should possess good dissolution properties in order to dissolve all the bromo
acids.
(ii)
It
should possess an optimum viscosity range.
(iii)
It
should be colourless, odourless and tasteless.
(iv)
It
should be non-toxic and non-irritating.
(v)
It
should be easily compatible and stable.
The most commonly used liquid
components may be as follows:
(a)
Mineral Oils:
(i)
They
consist of a blend of hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum source.
(ii)
They
may be avail ale as either light mineral oils or heavy mineral oils.
(iii)
They
are mostly used in order to impart gloss to the product rather than their
solvent property.
(iv)
They
are used in concentrations of less than 5% and are not rancid.
(b)
Vegetable Oils:
The vegetable oils used may be
sesame oil and olive oil. The vegetable oils
provides low solubility towards staining dyes and hence less commonly used.
(c)
Castor Oil:
It
is obtained from the seeds of the castor plant, Ricinus communis. It forms a most valuable lipstick base. It may be
used in concentration of 40 - 50% of the total formulation. It has high
viscosity and good dissolving power. It possesses stability towards oxidation.
It is widely compatible with other ingredients. The high viscosity may avoid
smearing off of the lipsticks.
(d)
Butyl Stearates:
They
are useful for the dispersion of colour though they possess less solubility. They can readily wet the
colouring pigments. They are odourless and free from rancidity.
(e)
Propylene Glycol:
It
is non-toxic and possesses a sweet taste. It has good wetting property towards high colouring
stains. It is always used in combination with other monoesters of propylene
glycol.
(f)
Water:
It is not used as a solvent but may
be used in minor quantities in order to dissolve the colour.
(g)
Silicone Fluid:
It is mostly used to aid in mould
release and prevent the rub-out of the wax.
It is used in minor quantities.
(h)
Isopropyl Maleate (IPM):
It is used in concentration of 2.3%
to increase lip gloss. It acts as a
co-solvent along with mineral oil and helps in increasing lip gloss.
3.
The Softening Agents:
They are used to increase the spread
ability by softening the lipstick. The
most commonly used softening agents include.
(a)
Anhydrous Lanolin: It is also known as wool fat or
woolwax. It is used at low concentration
of about 0.25% in order to impart gloss, softness, emolliency and protection to
the lips. The melting point ranges between 36 - 42° C.
(b)
Lanolin: It is also referred to as hydrous
wool fat. It is used in minor quantities in order to improve the covering properties of the film. It contains 25-30%
of water and may result in sticky and greasy products. It aids in the dispersion
of colored pigments.
(c)
Lanolin Derivatives: They include ethers, esters and
lanolin oils. They are almost none drying
and thus provide a non-greasy look to the film. They are also used as blending
agents or plasticizers.
(d)
Cocoa Butter: It was used in the past due to its
good emollient property. The usage has been
stopped due to rancidity and surface crystallization. It provides oily look on
the lips and hence imparts good gloss.
(e)
Petrolatum: It is a hydrocarbon obtained from
petroleum. It is odourless and tasteless. It is added mainly to enhance the gloss.
(f)
Lecithin: It is used in minor quantities to
impart smoothness and emollient effect. It
increases the ease of application.
4.
Colouring Agents:
Colour
may be imparted to the lips either by staining the lip with a dye stuff colour or by covering the lips
with coloring layers. The colours used in the formulation of lipsticks are of
two types:
(a)
Soluble
Colours: They are
dye stuff agents which are easily soluble in oil, water and alcohol.
(b)
Insoluble
Colours: They are
organic or inorganic pigments which are insoluble.
Properties
of Colouring Agents:
They should impart good opacity to
the lips by imparting good colour. They should he easily and uniformly miscible
with the oils used.
The colours must he certified with
the F, D and C grade.
They should possess very low content
of impurities such as arsenic, lead etc,.
The
commonly used colourants for lipsticks:
(i)
Carmine: It was extensively used in the past
and is obtained as carminic acid from the
cochineal insects by extracting the insects with ammonia. The carminic acid
obtained is precipitated with alum and is dried and used.
(ii)
Dye Stuff Stains: They include eosin dyes and provide
a long lasting effect on the lips by retaining
the color on the lip cells. They are:
(a)
Eosin
Dye: It is used to impart orange red
colour to the lips.
(b)
Acid
Eosin Dye: It has
orange colour and may change to intense red colour at acidic pH of 4. But they
may to toxic effects such as allergic reactions or cheilitis and hence used alone
with bromo acids.
(iii)
Pigmented Stains: They
form dispersion in the solvent base. They may be either organic or inorganic. They are used in
combination with metallic lakes in order to improve the intensity of the
colour.
(iv)
Lakes: They are potential pigments of many
of the D and C colours. They may be adsorbed
on the aluminium hydroxides, barium oxides, calcium oxides etc,.
Example: Aluminium lakes, barium or
calcium lakes, strontium lakes. They are used at concentrations of about 8-10%.
5.
Pearlescent Pigments:
They
are used to impart nacreous or a pearl like appearance to the product when applied on the lips. The
natural pearlescent pigments may be guanine crystals obtained from fish scales.
Bismuth oxychloride in 70 % castor oil may also provide a lustrous look.
6.
Opacifying Agent:
It
is used for opacifying or whitening of lipsticks. It can also alter the basic shade of the pigment. Various
shades can he obtained by, varying the proportions. Example: Titanium Dioxide.
7.
Perfumeries:
Light
floral fragrances can be used in lipsticks. They include rose oil, cinnamon oil, lavender oil etc. The
fruity flavours that cover fatty odour of the oily waxes may also be used. They
should be tasteless, non-irritating and compatible.
8.
Miscellaneous Agents: They include the following:
(a)
Preservatives: They are used to increase life
period of the product by reducing the microbial
growth. Though they are anhydrous preparations, preservatives such as methyl
paraben and propyl paraben may be commonly used. The concentration of the preservative
should not exceed 0.1%.
(b)
Antioxidants: The ingredients used in the
formulation may be susceptible to oxidation. This may result in the degradation of the product. Thus,
antioxidants are added in order to prevent oxidation of the ingredients. The commonly
used antioxidants are butylated hydroxyl anisole (BHA), butylated hydroxyl
toluene (BHT), tocopherol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyl quinines etc.
(c)
Flavouring Agents: They are included in order to
impart good flavor to the product. They may
include the spearmint oil, cinnamon oil etc. Along with the flavouring agents,
sodium saccharin and the ammonium glycyrrhizate may also be used in order to
improve the taste.
The various formulae for the
preparation of lipsticks are as follows:
Formula 1
Quantity for 100 g
Castor oil (dissolving liquid) - 54 g
Anhydrous lanoline (Emollient) - 11 g
Candelilla wax (hardening agent) - 9 g
Isopropyl myristate (blending agent) - 8 g
White bees wax (stiffening agent) - 5 g
Carnauba wax (provides rigidity) - 3 g
Ozokerite wax (increase melting
point) - 3 g
Eosin
(dye) - 2 g
Lakes
(color) - 5 g
Rose
flavour (perfume) - q. s
Tocopherol
(antioxidant) - q. s
Paraben
(preservative) - q. s
Formula 2
Quantity for 100 g
Castor
oil (dissolving liquid) - 54 g
lanolin
(Emollient) - 8 g
Candelilla
wax (hardening agent) - 6 g
Carnauba
wax (provides rigidity) - 2.5 g
Ozokerite
wax (increase melting point) - 2.5 g
bees
wax (stiffening agent) - 6 g
Isopropyl
myristate (blending agent) - 4 g
Halogenated
fluorescence (color) - 3 g
Lakes
(color) - 12 g
propyl
Paraben (preservative) - 0.2 g
Rose
oil (perfume) - 0.8 g
Rose
oil (perfume) - 0.8 g
Formula 3
Quantity for 100 g
Castor
oil (dissolving liquid) - 27 g
bees
wax (stiffening agent) - 20 g
Ozokerite
wax (increase melting point) - 10 g
Carnauba
wax (provides rigidity) - 5.5 g
lanolin
(covering agent/Emollient) - 5 g
Paraffin(stiffening
agent) - 3 g
Isopropyl
myristate (blending agent) - 3 g
Cetyl alcohol (co-solvent) - 2 g
Propylene
glycol (humectant) - 11 g
Propylene
glycol monoricinoleate (humectant) - 4
g
Eosin
(dye) - 2.5 g
Color - 10 g
Rose
oil (perfume) - q. s
Paraben
(preservative) - q. s
Tocopherol
(antioxidant) - q. s
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