Creams are classified according to their functions. They are:
CLASSIFICATION
Creams are classified according to
their functions. They are:
1.
Cleansing
and Cold Creams.
2.
Foundation
and Vanishing Creams.
3.
Night
and Message Creams.
4.
Hand
and Body Creams.
5.
All-purpose
Creams is Cleansing and Cold Creams
1.
Cleansing And Cold Creams:
Cleansing
Creams: They are
used for the purpose of removing makeup, surface grime (layer of dirt on skin) and secretions of
skin from the face and throat respectively.
Properties:
·
They
are easy to apply.
·
They
spread easily on the skin.
·
They
are pleasant in appearance.
·
They
cause less irritation to the skin.
·
They
should melt or liquefy when applied on to the skin.
·
They
should produce flushing action on skin and its pore openings.
·
They
should form an emollient film on the skin after application.
·
They
should not make skin dry which happens in case, when the skin is washed with
water and soap.
·
They
should remove chemicals of facial makeup effectively. They dissolve the greasy
binding materials which hold the pigment and finally remove them.
·
They
should remove solidified oil, sebum, sebum plaques and surface oil layer from
the skin.
·
They
also help in softening, lubricating and protecting skin apart from cleansing
purposes.
They are applied on face and throat
with the help of finger tips. Then the fingers are rotated upwards on the skin
for spreading purpose. Tissue paper or cotton wool used to remove the residue
of the cream. The layer which is left on the skin should be non-occlusive and
emollient in order to prevent drying.
Cleansing creams are of two types.
They are:
(i)
Bees
wax-borax type / Emulsified type.
(ii)
(ii)
Liquefying type.
(i)
Bees Wax-borax Type / Emulsified
Type: It is considered as an important
formulation in cleansing creams.
This type of preparation liquefies when 'applied to the skin, which helps in
easy spreading. It is white, lustrous and good consistency.
It is an oil-in water type of
emulsion, in which high percentage of mineral oil is present. This mineral oil
helps in imparting cleansing property. Phase inversion takes place due to
evaporation of water after the creams are rubbed on the skin. The phase inversion
(i.e., water in-oil type) helps in imparting the cleansing action.
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Mineral
oil (lubricant) 28 g
Isopropyl
myristate (lubricant and emollient) 14
g
Acetoglyceride
(luster) 2.5 g
Petroleum
jelly (lubricant) 7.5 g
Beeswax
(emollient) 15 g
Borax
(buffer) 1 g
Water
(vehicle) 32 g
Preservative q. s
Perfume
(odour) q. s
Mineral oil, isopropyl myristate,
acetoglyceride, petroleum jelly and bees wax heated to a temperature of about
75°C in a separate glass container (ingredients having least melting point are
melted first and then high melting point ingredients are melted). This is
mixture A.
In other glass container borax and water
are heated to same temperature i.e., 75°C.preservatives are dissolved in water
before he ating. This is mixture B.
Mixture B is added to the mixture A
slowly, along with continuous stirring. Stirring carried out until a thick
stable emulsion is formed.
Perfume is added to the preparation
when it attains a temperature of 35°C and stirring is carried out.
Then the preparation is passed
through a triple roller mill for milling purpose.
Preparation is transferred and
stored in a suitable container.
(ii)
Liquefying Type: This type of creams consist of a
mixture of oil and water which are translucent
in nature. They are translucent in nature, they are anhydrous creams with
thixotropic character i.e., they liquefy when applied on skin.
Ingredients Uses
1. Paraffin wax: Responsible
for thixotropic character.
2. Mineral oil and wax: (proportion should be Phase separation, sweating
and granular proper) appearance
is avoided.
3. Amorphous ozokerite and petrolatum: To avoid formation of crusty surface.
1. Lanolin,
cetyl, alcohol, spermaceti and cocoa butter: They impart emollient property
5. Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate,
zinc stearate or hydrous lanolin (used in 2% concentration) : To impart opaque
appearance
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Mineral
oil (lubricant) 80 g
Petrolatum
(protective agent) 15 g
Ozokerite
wax (humectants) 5 g
Preservative q. s
Perfume
(odour) q. s
Method:
Mineral oil, petrolatum and
ozokerite wax are heated together to a temperature of about 65°C (First
ozokerite wax is melted followed by petrolatum and mineral oil). The above
mixture is cooled along with continuous stirring.
Preservative and perfume are added
to the mixture after it attains a temperature of 40° C.
Then the preparation is transferred
and stored in a syllabic container.
Cold Creams: These types of creams are water-in-oil type of emulsion.
They produce cooling sensation by
the evaporation of water, after application of cream to the skin. Hence, they
are known as cream. They should possess emollient action and the layer left on
the skin after application should be non-occlusive.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
White
beeswax (emollient) 20 g
Mineral
oil (lubricant) 50 g
Distilled
water (vehicle) 28.8 g
Borax
(buffer) 0.7 g
Perfume
(odour) 0.5 g
Method:
Beeswax is melted in a container by
using water bath to a temperature of about 70° C.
Then mineral oil is added to the
melted beeswax. This is mixture A.
In another container, water is
heated to a temperature of about 70° C and borax is dissolved in it. This is
mixture B.
Mixture B (aqueous phase) is added
slowly to mixture A (oily phase) along with stirring. Stirring is carried out
until a creamy emulsion is formed.
Finally, perfume is added to the
preparation when it attains a temperature of about 40°C.
1. Vanishing
And Foundation Creams:
These creams are also referred to as
'Day Creams' as they are applied during day times. These creams provide
emollient as well as protective action to the skin against environmental conditions
by- forming a semi-occlusive residual-film. This film is neither greasy nor
oily.
(a)
Vanishing Creams: They are oil in water type of
emulsion. When applied on the surface of
skin, they spread as thin oil less film which is not visible to the naked eye.
Hence, they are called as vanishing creams. They are used to hold powder on the
skin as well as to improve adhesion.
Properties:
·
It
should have high melting point.
·
It
should be pure white in colour.
·
It
should possess very little odour.
·
It
should have less number of iodine.
Ingredients
And Its Uses
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Stearic
acid (lubricant) 24 g
Potassium
hydroxide (softening agent) 1 g
Water
(vehicle) 64 g
Glycerin
(humectants) 10.5 g
Perfume
(odour) 0.5 g
Method:
Stearic acid is melted in a
container by using water bath.
Potassium hydroxide is dissolved in
water and then glycerin is added. This mixture is heated to a temperature of
about 75' C. This is aqueous phase.
Slowly aqueous phase is added to melted
stearic acid along with continuous stirring.
Perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of 40° C.
Note:
During cooling, care should to be
taken, as the cream passes, through two transformations
i.e., softening and hardening. Then cream attains its desired form. Even formation
of crust on the top surface of cream should be avoided by stirring to prevent
lump formation.
(b)
Foundation Creams: They provide emollient base or
foundation to the skin. They are applied
before applying face powder or other preparations of make-up.
Properties:
·
Adhesion
of powder to the skin is improved by these creams, as they possess good holding
capacity.
·
They
should be easily spread on the skin.
·
They
should be non-greasy in nature.
·
They
should be capable of leaving a non-occlusive film on the skin after
application.
Ingredients:
Ingredients are similar to that of
vanishing creams. Except some of the ingredients
which are as follows:
Ingredients Uses
They are of two types:
(i)
Pigmented
Foundation Creams: They are colored creams.
(ii)
Unpigmented
Foundation creams: These creams do not contain pigments in the formulation.
Formula-2 Quantity for 100 g
Lanolin (emollient) 2 g
Cetyl alcohol 0.50 g
Stearic acid (lubricant) 10 g
Potassium hydroxide ( softening
agent ) 0.40 g
Method:
Lanolin, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid
and potassium hydroxide are heated to a temperature of about 75°C in one
container. This is oily phase.
In another container, water and
propylene glycol are heated to same temperature i.e., 75°C. Preservatives
should be dissolved in water be fore heating is carried out. This is aqueous
phase.
Then slowly aqueous phase is added
to oily phase along with continuous stirring until the preparation becomes
cold. 4. Perfume is added to the preparation when the above mixture reaches a
temperature of 35°C.
Finally the preparation is passed
through a triple roller mill for milling purpose, (milling is carried out to
obtain a good product).
Foundation Make-up: Foundation make-up cream helps in overcoming the trouble associated with foundation creams i.e.,
application of foundation cream is a two-step process where it acts as a base
to hold the powder makeup. These two step can be avoided by using foundation
make-up. These are available various forms especially the liquid foundation
make-up- is popular because it easy to apply compared to lose powders and it
also provide smooth appearance to the skin.
Surfactants present in the foundation
make-up may allow the pigments or colours to penetrate into hair follicles and
fissures present in the epidermis of the skin. Hence, should be completely
removed after application.
Formula-3 Quantity for 100 g
Lanette wax 8 g
Stearic acid (lubricant) 8 g
Water (vehicle) 64 g
Glycerin (humectants) 10 g
Powder (base) 1 0g
Color q. s
Perfume (odour) q. s
preservatives q. s
Method:
Lanette wax, stearic acid and water
are heated to a temperature of about 85-900 C in a separate container.
Preservative should be dissolved in water before heating of mixture. This is
mixture A.
Colour and perfume are added to
powder base and mixed. Then this mixture is dispersed in glycerin. This is
mixture B.
Mixture B is added to mixture A and
then it is mixed thoroughly.
3.
Night And Massage Creams:
(a)
Night Creams: The preparations which are applied
during night time and removed in the morning
are called night creams.
(b)
Massage Creams: The preparations which are gently
applied and rubbed on the skin through
massage technique are called massage creams. Skin becomes dry due to the
following reason:
·
When
stratum corneum is exposed to low humidity, excessive loss of water takes place
which attributes to dryness of skin.
·
When
the lower layer of epidermis does not hydrate properly.
·
When
the skin is in contact with soap or solutions of detergent for long time.
Reason: The
hygroscopic substances present in the stratum corneum of the skin are responsible for water binding capacity.
These hygroscopic substances are protected by fatty materials which are not
easily removed by water alone. But with the use of solvent and water or detergent
solutions, These substances are removed and makes the skin dry. In order to
make the dry skin smooth, water is incorporated into the horny layery.
This can be achieved by:
·
Increasing
the process of diffusion of the living cells of epidermis.
·
Water
is incorporated into the horny layer of the epidermis from outside i.e., by
using creams, lotions etc,.
·
Surface
of the skin is occluded in order to prevent evaporation of water. Creams i.e.,
night and massage creams act in the same way in order to make the dry skin
smooth. Hence, these creams are also known as emollient creams.
Properties:
·
These
creams are formulated with fatty substances which help in easy spreading on the
skin.
·
These
creams help in providing occlusive layer to the skin, which reduce the rate of
water loss from the transepidermal layer. The occlusive layer is also responsible
for providing moisturizing effect on the skin.
Ingredients:
Ingredients are either water soluble
or fat soluble.
Formula -1 Quantity for 100 g
Mineral oil (lubricant ) 38 g
Petroleum jelly (lubricant ) 8 g
White beeswax (emollient) 15 g
Paraffin wax (base and lubricant ) 1 g
Lanolin (emollient ) 2 g
Borax ( buffer ) 1 g
Water (vehicle) 35 g
Perfume (odour) q. s
Preservatives q. s
Antioxidant (to prevent oxidation ) q. s
Method:
Mineral oil, petroleum jelly, white
beeswax, paraffin wax and lanolin are heated to a temperature of about 75°C in
a one container. This is mixture A.
Borax, water and antioxidant are
heated in another separate container to same temperature i.e. 75°C.
Preservative is dissolved in water before heating the mixture. This is mixture
B.
Slowly mixture B is added to mixture
A along with continuous stirring.
Perfume is added after the
preparation has attained a temperature of about 35°C.
4.
Hand And Body Creams:
Due
to exposure of skin to water, soaps and detergents many times a day, removal of lipids and other secretions from the skin
occurs. Cold and dry winds are responsible for chapping of the skin. Chapping
occurs due to loss of moisture from the skin, which is also associated with
cracking.
Water is sufficient enough to treat
the dryness of the skin, but evaporation of water takes place rapidly, which
again, makes the skin dry and no emollient effect is produced.
In case, if hands are immersed in
water for longer time then abnormal hydration takes place. This hydration will
lead to swelling of cells in stratum corneum, which ultimately results in
rupturing of cells.
Hence, hand and body creams are
formulated with suitable emollient, which not only make water available but also
regulates the water take-up by the cells of stratum corneum.
Properties:
·
They
are easy to apply.
·
They
help in softening or imparting emollient effect to hands.
·
They
should not leave behind sticky film after their application.
·
They
should not interfere with perspiration of the skin as it may re
bioavailability.
·
Perfume
and colour should be added in the cream preparation for pleasant smell and
appearance.
Ingredients:
Method:
Isopropyl myristate, mineral oil,
emulsifying wax and lanolin are heated in a container. This is a mixture A.
Glycerin, triethanolamine and water
are heated in a separate container .preservative is dissolved in water before
heating the mixture. this is a mixture B.
Mixture B is added to mixture A
along with continuous stirring until cream is formed.
Perfume is added to the preparation
when it reaches a temperature of 35°C.
Finally, the preparation is passed
through a triple roller mill for milling, which provides good texture.
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Isopropyl myristate (lubricant and
emollient) 4 g
Mineral oil (lubricant) 2 g
Stearic acid (lubricant) 3 g
Emulsifying wax (emulsifier) 0.275 g
Lanolin (emollient) 2.5
g
Glycerin (humectants ) 3 g
Triethanolamine (emulsifying agent) 1 g
Water (vehicle) 84.225 g
Perfume (odour) q. s
Preservatives q. s
5.
All-Purpose Creams/Sports Creams:
These creams are used by sport
persons and also by people who do
outdoor activities. Hence, they are called as sport creams.
·
They
are oily in nature but non-greasy type.
·
They
provide protective film to the skin.
·
They
make the rough surfaces of the skin smooth.
·
When
it is applied in more quantity, it act as
(a)
Nourishing
agent
(b)
Protective
cream in order to protect the skin from sunburn.
(c)
Night
cream.
(d)
Cleansing
cream
·
When
it is applied in less quantity, it act as
(a)
Hand
creams
(b)
(b)
Foundation creams
Ingredients:
The various ingredients used in the
formulation are as follows:
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Wool
alcohol (emollient) 6 g
Hard
paraffin( soothing agent) 24 g
White
soft paraffin (emollient) 10 g
Liquid
paraffin (emollient) 60 g
Perfume
(odour) q. s
Antioxidant q. s
Method:
Wool alcohol, hard paraffin, soft
paraffin, liquid paraffin and antioxidant are melted.
Stirring is carried out until the
preparation is cooled.
Perfume is added to the preparation,
when it reaches a temperature of 35°C. Hydrous ointment can be prepared by
using the same base ingredients but with the incorporation of equal amount of
water.
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