The major classification is listed as follows:
CLASSIFICATION
OF HAIR COLOURANTS
The major classification is listed
as follows:
1.
Temporary
hair colourants.
2.
Semi-permanent
hair colourants/Direct dye
3.
Oxidative
dyeing systems:
It includes:
(a)
Semi-permanent
hair colourants.
(b)
Permanent
hair colourants.
4.
Gradual
hair colourants.
5.
Natural
dyes.
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1.
Temporary Hair Colorants:
They
are leave-in preparations. The hair is not rinsed after the application of the colorant. The colorant is easily removed with
one wash using a shampoo because they are absorbed in to the cuticle and cannot
enter into the cortex of the hair. They are rarely called as water rinses.
Basically temporary hair colorants
consist of dye stuffs and acid. The different dye stuffs are acid dyes, basic
dyes, metalized dyes and disperse dyes. Chemically the dye stuffs are azo dyes,
anthraquinone dyes, benzoquinoneimine dyes, triphenyl methane dyes, phenazanic
dyes and xanthenic dyes. The hair colourants are available in different
formulations like powders, crayons, liquids and shampoos.
(a) Powder Formulations: They are mostly used in theoretical make up and masquerades. The powder consists of dye stuff and
acid like citric acid or tartaric acid. They are available in sachets.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Certified
color 5 g
Tartaric
acid (buffer) 95 g
Application Technique: The powder is dissolved in 250 ml
of water and this solution is applied on wet hair after shampooing.
(b)
Crayon Formulations: These temporary hair colorants are
applied between the applications of
permanent hair colorants. They color the new growing hair. They are available
in many shades of colors. The composition of crayon is soap, waxes, dyes or
pigments.
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Stearic
acid (anionic surfactant) 15 g
Triethanolamine (surfactant) 7
g
Beeswax
(wax) 50 g
Carnauba
wax(wax)
13 g
Ozokerite
(wax) 7 g
Glyceryl
mono stearate (surfactant ) 6 g
Tragacanth
(gum) 2 g
Color q. s
Method:
Triethanolamine, glyceryl
monostearate and tragacanth are heated to 70°C.
Stearic acid is incorporated in the
above mixture and the mixture is heated to 75°C.
Beeswax and carnauba wax are melted
separately at 70--80°C.
The molten waxes are added to the above
mixture and stirred well.
Color is added and the mixture is
stirred well.
This mixture is then poured into the
moulds.
Formula-2 Quantity for 100 g
Sodium
stearate (thickener) 18 g
Gum
Arabica (gum ) 25 g
Glycerin (surfactant ) 15
g
Color 17 g
Water
(solvent) 25 g
Method:
A mixture of water and glycerin is
prepared and divided into two parts.
Gum Arabica is added to one portion.
Sodium stearate is added to the
other portion and ii is dissolved b warming.
Both the portions are mixed and
colour is added.
This mixture is milled to form a
paste.
The paste is introduced into moulds
and allowed to dry with the help of heat.
Application Technique: It may be applied in one of the two
ways.
1.
The
crayons are rubbed over the hair, (or)
2.
It
is applied using a brush.
(c)
Colour Shampoos: They develop a temporary tinge of
colour. The base used in the preparation
consists sulphonated oils, anionic or non-ionic surfactants. They are available
in only few colour shades.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Ammonium
lauryl alcohol sulphate (surfactant) 30
g
Coco
diethanolamide (pearlescent stabilizer ) 2
g
Water
(solvent) To make up to 100 g
Water Rinses:
1.
The
water rinses are acidic in nature, thus
(a) Prevents the degradation of hair
by alkali.
(b) Gives pastel shades to bleached
hair.
(c) Auburn (reddish brown), blue,
blonde, pink colours may be obtained.
2.
The
water used in water rinses must be deionized or distilled water, otherwise. The
colours of the colourants get changed by the metal ions present in water.
3.
EDTA,
sequestering agent is included in water rinses.
4.
A
compatibility is observed between dye and acid which is responsible for
imparting particular colour. That is why appropriate acid is used with a
particular dye.
5.
Solutions
of basic dyes like Methylene blue, gentian violet and rhodamine gives pastel
shades.
6.
Bleaching
mixture is added to solution of dye to minimize deep red and yellow colours but
to obtain white or platinum blonde colours.
7.
The
dye stuff when added to a detergent base shampoo, exerts similar action as that
of water rinses. It is prepared in the following manner.
(a)
Dye
is mixed with water to form a solution.
(b)
The
above solution is added to shampoo detergent base like triethanolamine lauryl
sulfate.
(c)
The
pH of the above mixture is adjusted to 5.
Formula for water rinses or rinse
solution is given below:
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Acid
dyestuff (color) 6 g
Alcohol
(antiseptic ) 10 g
30%
acetic acid (buffer) 10g
Water
(solvent) 74 g
2.
Semi-Permanent Hair Colourants / Direct
Dyes:
These colourants have a long lasting
colour retaining ability when compared to colour shampoos. The colour produced
is stronger as well. Dark colours are obtained with the colourants though they
do not contain H2O2. This offers an advantage that the
melanin of the hair doesn't get bleached but is only masked with the colourant.
The colour obtained on the grey hair is different than the black (pigmented)
hair because of which the hairs are highlighted. The colourants are easily
applied. This colour is not lost with one wash, but is gradually lost in 5 - 8
washes with shampoo. Fragrance may he added in the composition of the colourant.
Ingredient:
The semi-permanent hair colourants
are composed of the following constituents.
(a)
Dye
(b)
Water
(c)
Organic
solvent like alcohol, derivatives of glycol.
(d)
Fatty
acid, fatty acid amide.
(e)
Thickener.
(f)
Surfactant
(g)
Perfume
(h)
Aliphatic
primary amines which work as co-solvent and buffer. Example: 2 - amino,
2-methylpropanol.
(a)
Dyes: The action of the dye or dyes is
observed on hair or white wool before proceeding for the colour preparation. The following factors are of great
concern dining the use of the dyes.
·
Aqueous
solution of the dye.
·
The
pH effect on the dye.
·
The
composition of the base added.
·
The
effect of solvents added.
The dyes which impart different
shades belong to the following categories:
(i)
O-nitro
anilines. (Gives yellow and orange shades)
(ii)
Aminonitrophenols
and their ethers (gives yellow and orange shades)
(iii)
Azo
dyes (Gives yellow and orange shades)
(iv)
Nitrodiphenylamines
(Gives 'orange to red shades).
(v)
Nitrophenyienediamines (Gives
colour in the
range red to violet).
(vi) Anthraquinone (Gives violet to
blue shades
The semi-permanent hair colourants
diffuse into and out of the hair which lead to off-shade fading. Therefore,
colourants are selected which have a wide range of molecular sizes. 'This help
in,
·
Even
colouring of the hair.
·
The
properties of the dye like permeability and substantivity for porous tips of
hair and undamaged root ends are compensated.
Demerits of Semi-permanent Hair
Colourants : The hair ends get damaged which is referred as warm wearing. Large
sized amino-containing molecules like Disperse Blue 1 and Disperse Violet 1 are
used to prevent warm wearing of the ends. These molecules are easily washed
off.
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Quaternary
ammonium compound (color) 10-12 g
Anionic
surfactant (surfactant ) 8-10 g
Acid
(buffer) 6-8 g
Alkanolamide
(surfactant ) 4-6 g
Dye
stuff (color) 1-2 g
Water
(solvent) To make 100 g
Method:
A mixture of alkanolamide and anionic
surfactant is prepared.
The dye is added to the above
mixture* and is dissolved.
The acid and quaternary ammonium
compounds are dissolved in water.
This aqueous solution is added to
the solution of dye with stirring.
This dye is investigated for the
effects of quaternary ammonium compound, pH, aldehydes and alcohols additions.
Now the viscosity of the dye is
adjusted by adding hydrophilic colloids like methylcellulose, natural gum etc.
The viscosity of the colourant is
increased by the addition of non-ionic thickener in its composition. The
addition of amphoteric surfactant in the colourant accompanied by basic dyes.
Formula-2 Quantity for 100 g
Amphoteric surfactant (surfactant ) 10 g
Lauric
isopropanolamide (surfactant) 1 g
Non-
ionic surfactant (surfactant ) 5 g
Oleyl
alcohol 1 g
Non-
ionic thickener( thickener) 2 g
Dye (color) 2
g
Perfume q. s
Water
(solvent) To make 100 g
3.
Oxidative Dyeing Systems:
These
dyes are also called as ‘para dyes’. At the time of application, these dyes are colourless but turn to a particular
colour after undergoing chemical reactions on the hair. The chemical reactions
include the following reactions in alkaline pH, which are oxidation and coupling
and condensation.
Ingredients:
The ingredients of these dyes which
render the above reactions are bases, couplers
and oxidizing agent.
(a)
Bases: They are primary intermediates.
Chemically they are aromatic compounds.
(b)
Couplers: They are aromatic in nature, and are
referred as modifiers. They are the derivatives
of benzene which show - NH2 and - OH substitutions at meta position. Oxidation
of couplers with hydrogen peroxide is difficult to achieve. Example: 2,
4-diaminoanisole, Resorcinol, m-chloro resorcinol, m-phenylene-diamine.
(c)
Oxidizing Agents: Commonly used oxidizing agent is
hydrogen peroxide. Formulation of Oxidative
Dyeing Systems: The following factors are of great concern during the
preparation of oxidation dyes.
1.
Formulation
bases
2.
Dye
components: It includes oxidation base and coupling agent.
3.
Alkali.
4.
Oxidizing
agents
5.
Antioxidant.
1.
Formulation Bases:
They
are used as vehicles for dyes (amino dyes) and modifiers. The vehicle is one which uniformly
distributes the colourant mixture on the hair. Example: In amino dyes, a
mixture of water (48-7945%),ethyl alcohol (20-50%) glycerine (0.5 - 2%) is used
because he amino dye has low aqueous solubility.
If the preparation is an emulsion
i.e., cream or lotion (rather than a solution) the distribution of the
preparation on hair is more even. The formulation bases may be of the following
kinds such as emulsion type, bleach-dye combination products, and powder
preparations. The emulsion type preparations are of two types. They are foaming
and non-foaming types.
(a)
Foaming-type Creams: They are emulsified using surfactants
like monoethanolamine lauryl sulfate
and ethylene glycol monostearate.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Monoethanolamine
lauryl sulphate (surfactant ) 10 g
Ethylene
glycol monostearate (surfactant ) 1 g
Preservative q. s
Water
(solvent) To make 100 g
Non-Foaming-type
Creams: They are
emulsified by using mineral oil, cetyl alcohol and non-ionic emulsifier.
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Mineral
oil (emulsifying agent +emollient) 1.5
g
Cetyl
alcohol (emulsifying agent +emollient) 5 g
Non-ionic
emulsifier (emulsifying agent) 3-5 g
Preservative q. s
Water
(solvent) To make 100 g
Other additives like hydrous
lanolin, lecithin, sequestering agent may he added to improve the formulation
as a whole.
Formula-2 Quantity for 100 g
Ammonium
hydroxide 10 g
Isopropyl
alcohol 3 g
Perfume q. s
Oleic
acid 33 g
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate 12 g
(emulsifying
agent)
Non-
ionic surfactant (surfactant ) 4 g
Hydrous
lanolin (emollient) 1.5 g
Lecithin 1 g
Sequestering
agent (anti-oxidant) 1 g
Water To make 100 g
Bleach-dye Combination Products: They are used to bleach as well as
colour the hair. Increased levels of
ammonium hydroxide are used along with proportionate amounts of hydrogen
peroxide.
Powder Preparation: It contains
oxidizing agent such as sodium peroxide and alkali ammonium hydroxide. This
powder preparation is made into a paste using water and is then applied.
2.
Dye Components:
Oxidation
bases: By using varying
concentrations of p-phenylene diamine or p-toluene diamine, a number of shades can be achieved.
Percent
of oxidation base Shade obtained
0.3 Light brown
0.45 Medium brown
0.5 Brown
0.9 black
(b)
Coupling Agents: Instead of coupling agents, direct
colouring agent can also be used, coupling
agents modify the shade and stabilize it. The time required to develop color
with different modifiers.
3.
Alkali:
The
oxidation dyes work best in alkaline medium. Therefore, alkali is incorporated in their composition. The best alkali
is ammonium hydroxide. It leaves no evidence of its presence on the hair. It is
used in a concentration of 1 - 2% in the final preparation. Because of its
odour, it is completely or partially replaced with ammonium carbonate, monoethanolamine,
guanidine or arginine derivatives, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,
alkanolamide etc,.
4.
Oxidizing Agent:
On
exposure to air, dyes such as amino dyes turn black. However oxidizing agent is added in its
composition to achieve the desired colour. Examples are ferric chloride,
potassium permanganate, potassium dichromate, hydrogen peroxide etc. Hydrogen peroxide is popularly used. It is used
in a concentration of 5 - 6% solution which generates 20 volumes of oxygen. H 2O
2 is responsible to develop colour on the hair. It is sold in a
package containing two containers. One container contains dye and the other
contains the developer.
5.
Antioxidant:
During
the manufacturing of dyes, especially amino dyes, an atmosphere of nitrogen is maintained to prevent the
darkening of the dye. Since dyes (amino dye) are darkened on exposure to air.
Instead of maintaining nitrogen atmosphere, chemical antioxidant like sodium
sulfite is included in the preparation.
The total amount of base and the
coupling agent used gives the amount of sodium sulfite to be used in the
preparation. If darker shades are desired, then the amount of sodium sulfite is
increased. The oxidative dyeing system consists of the semi-permanent hair
colourants and the permanent hair colourants.
(a)
Semi-permanent Hair Colourants: The semi-permanent and permanent
hair colourants are the two classes
of oxidation dyes or oxidative dyeing systems. They differ in the extent of
giving light colour shades to the hair. The common constituents of both the classes
are alkalizing agents, oxidants, dyes, solvents and surfactants.
(I).
Alkalizing Agents: The
alkalizing agents are added.
·
To
increase the pH of the formulation to an optimal level.
·
To
generate active oxidizers from hydrogen peroxide.
·
To
swell the hair fibres for absorption of dye.
Examples of alkalizing agents
include ammonia, Monoethanolamine.
The rate of bleaching of hair is based
on the following factors and the rate of bleaching is directly proportional to
the following factors.
·
pH.
·
Concentration
of hydrogen peroxide.
·
Amine
added.
The rate of bleaching of different
amines and ammonia is shown.
Tertiary
amine < secondary amine < primary amine < ammonia.
It means ammonia is a strong alkalizing
agent, which is used-widely.
Instead of ammonia, high level of
monoethanolamine is used alone or monoethanolamine and ammonia are used in
combination. The semi permanent products employ monoethanolamine alone, where a
little bleaching is required, whereas hindered primary, secondary or tertiary
amines are employed, when no bleaching is required.
Oxidant: Oxidant is added in the composition of the colourants to
generate active species (like p-
phenylene diamine, benzoquinone monoamine) for coupling. Oxidants are used to
bleach melanin present in the hair. Light colour shades are obtained when the
grey and pigmented hair are coloured evenly by using semi permanent colourants.
(III).
Dye: Dyes are
used to impart the desired colour shade to the hair.
(IV). Solvents: The constituents of the colourants which are not soluble in
water, are dissolved by using
solvents, so that a homogenous system is obtained.
(V). Surfactant: It reduces the surface tension between the different
ingredients, to make a homogeneous
preparation.
(b)
Permanent Hair Colourants: The colour produced by these
colourants last longer when compared
to semi-permanent colourants. Actually it is the precursor of dye which when
applied undergoes chemical changes to form the colour rather than the dye
itself.
They are available in light colour
shades to dark colour shades. It is the growth of hair more than fading of colour,
which arises the need to re-dye. This results in stripped appearance of the
hair.
The oxidation dyes may cause
allergic reactions in some individuals. According to the rules of drugs and
cosmetics, the preparation must contain the caution in English, local and other
regional languages on both the inner and outer labels.
Caution: “The preparation may cause irritation of skin in s ome
individuals; therefore, it is advised
to go for patch testing before using it on hair. The eyelashes and eyebrows are
not dyed because it may cause blindness."
Example: Metallic hair colourant /
colour restorers.
The instructions to proceed with the
patch testing are written in English, local and other regional -languages.
The individuals are advised to go
for testing before using it on hair. The test is carried out either behind the
ear or on inner surface of forearm. The area is cleansed with soap water or
alcohol. The dye is prepared according to the instruction given on its leaflet
and applied on tile cleaned area. It is kept under observation for 24 hrs.
After that, it is washed with water. The area is observed for any irritation or
inflammation, there are any signs of them, then the individual is
hypersensitive to the dye, and if there are no signs, then the individual is
not hypersensitive to the dye. The patch test is required before each
application oldie dye.
They are compounds of metals like
cadmium, copper, cobalt, lead and silver. These metals are present in their
salt forms. They are also called as progressive hair colourants since they
colour the grey hair gradually. The colour is achieved by the deposition of the
metallic salt on the hair shaft.
Formula-1 Quantity for 100 g
Lead acetate (color) 5.5 g
Sodium thiosulphate (reducing agent) 11 g
Glycerin (humectants ) 8.5 g
Ethyl alcohol (antiseptic) 10 g
Perfume q. s
Water (solvent) To make 100 g
Formula-2 Quantity for 100 g
Lead acetate (color) 12 g
Precipitated sulfur 24 g
Propylene glycol 1 2g
Ethyl alcohol (antiseptic) 10 g
Perfume q. s
Water (solvent) To make 100 g
Metallic dyes also include silver
dyes, they were used before the organic chemical dyes. A number of shades can
be obtained by, varying the concentration of silver in the preparation. Silver
dyes were left behind with the popularity of synthetic organic dyes. One of the
example is pyrogallol. Skin irritations and harmful effects upon internal
administration were reported which led to the discontinuation of pyrogallol.
4.
Gradual Colourant:
It
includes heavy metals in its composition. The hair is gradually coloured with several application of
the colourant. The heavy metals used are lead or bismuth in their salt forms.
The salts of the heavy metals are mad into solutions and are used in the preparations.
The preparation is applied many times because the colour develops gradually.
Demerit:
since, the preparation includes
heavy metals, it offer negative effects on the health.
Therefore the use of these
colourants is declined.
5.
Natural Dyes:
Since, antiquity, plant materials
are looked upon as beneficial sources for
various ailments and other purposes. The leaves are used as colourants:
(a)
Henna: The leaves of henna are powdered and
sold. The paste is formed by mixing the henna
powder in hot water. The paste is directly applied on hair and a warm towel is
wrapped around the head to enhance the colouring effect.lt gives reddish colour
to the hair. Henna is non-toxic and non-sensitizing.
The active constituent of henna is
lawsone, which is chemically 2-hydroxy-l4 - napthaquinone. It is responsible
for imparting the color. Indigo leaves or synthetic indigo is added to henna to
alter the colour. Apart from this, pyrogallic acid and metallic salts like copper
sulphate are added. An increased level of pyrogallic acid added to henna, gives
darker shades.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Powdered henna (color) 89 g
Pyrogallic acid (color) 6 g
Copper sulphate (color) 5 g
(a)
Camomile: The flowers of camomile are used to
obtain the colo ur. The flowers which contain
the active principle are powdered. Its paste is made by mixing the powder with
hot water and applied on the hair. A warm towel is wrapped over the head to
enhance the colouring effect. The colour achieved is due to the navy blue
volatile oil obtained in the process. Either 2 parts of kaolin or 1 l part of
fuller’s earth is added to camomile powder to form a cohesive composition. Henna
is mixed with camomole in varying proportions, to modify the colours.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Powdered camomile (color) 70 g 30
g
Powdered henna (color) 30 g 70
g
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