Three different types of powder products are used in cosmetics, which are as follows:
CLASSIFICATION
OF POWDERS
Three different types of powder products
are used in cosmetics, which are as follows:
1.
Face
powders
2.
Compacts
3.
Body
powders / Talcum powders / Dusting powders.
1.
Face Powders:
These powders have the ability to
complement the skin colour by providing
velvety finish to it.
Properties:
·
It
should impart smooth finish to the skin.
·
It
should mask minor imperfections (which are visible) on the skin.
·
It
should eliminate shine present on the skin due to moisture or grease.
·
It
should have long lasting property to avoid frequent application.
·
It
should be resistant to the secretions of the skin i.e., sebaceous and
perspiration.
·
It
should serve as a vehicle to perfumes so that the particles of perfumes may
spread easily.
A single substance is unable to
impart all the characters i.e., covering power. Slip character absorbent capacity,
adhesive property. Hence, mixture of substances is used in the formulation of
powders to impart desired properties to the skin.
Depending on the type of skin to be
powdered, the face powders are classified into 3 types.
They are light type, medium type and
heavy type.
(i)
Light Type: These types of powders are applied
on dry skin. They have low covering power
since the dry skin does not secrete any oils. Large amount of talc will be
present in the formulation of powders.
Method:
It is a dry mixing method.
Perfume is added to some part of
calcium carbonate, which is absorbent and mixed thoroughly. This preparation is
kept aside for some time. This is mixture A.
Color is add added to some part-of
talc and mixed thoroughly. This is mixture B. Then kaolin, zinc oxide, zinc
stearate, magnesium carbonate and remaining part of calcium carbonate and talc
are added to mixture B and mixed properly. Mixture A is added to the above
mixture and mixing is carried out. Finally, the preparation is sieved by using
either a silk mesh or nylon cloth.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Talc (Slip Character) 63 g
Kaolin (Covering Materials) 20 g
Calcium Carbonate (Absorbent) 5 g
Zinc Oxide (Covering Materials) 5g
Zinc Stearate (Slip Character) 5g
Magnesium Carbonate (Absorbent) 1 g
Color 0.5 g
Perfume (Odour) 0.5 g
(ii)
Medium type: Type of powders is applied on the
normal or moderate oily skins. These skins
are shiny in nature due to the sebaceous secretions or perspiration (sweat).
They have good covering power compared to light type. They contain less quantity
of talc along with slightly more quantity of zinc oxide (The less quantity of
talc is balanced by zinc oxide).
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Talc
(Slip Character) 39.7 g
Kaolin
(Covering Materials) 39.5 g
Calcium
Carbonate (Absorbent) 5 g
Zinc
Oxide (Covering Materials) 7g
Zinc
Stearate (Slip Character) 7 g
Magnesium
Carbonate (Absorbent) 1 g
Color 0.2 g
Perfume
(Odour) 0.6 g
Method The method is same as that of
light type of face powders.
(iii)
Heavy type: These types of powders are applied
on extremely oily skins, which have more
shine due to secretions. They have high covering power, in order to cover the
shine of the skin. They, contain less quantity of talc and more quantity of
zinc oxide.
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Magnesium
Stearate (Covering Materials) 5 g
Kaolin
(Covering Materials) 20 g
Zinc
Oxide (Covering Materials) 15 g
Calcium
Carbonate (Absorbent) 39 g
Talc
(Slip Character) 20 g
2.
Compacts:
Loose
powder or dry powders are compressed in the form of cake along with binder by compaction process; in order
to form compact Powders. Compact are applied on the face with help of powder
puff. The pressure used in compaction process is an important factor in the formulation
of compacts. As low pressure may form cake which break easily during use and
high pressure form very hard cake which will not adhere to the puff easily. The
average particle in compact powders is looser compared tri loose powders, due
to compaction.
Ingredients:
The composition of compact powder is
similar to face powder but binding agents
e incorporated, in order to increase adhesion property.
Binders Examples
1.Dry
binders (requires increased pressure zinc
stearate, magnesium stearate
for
Compaction)
2.Oil
binder mineral oil, isopropyl myristate,
lanolin derivatives
3.
Water-soluble binders tragacanth,
karaya, Arabic
(a)
Aqueous solution gums polyvinyl
pyrrolidine (PVP),methyl
(b)
Aqueous solution of synthetic or Semi cellulose
synthetic gums, Carboxy methyl cellulose (CMC)
(c
) Preservatives are added along with gum to avoid microbial growth
4.
Water-repellant binder. Mineral oil, fatty
esters, derivatives of lanolin.
Wetting
agent is also used for uniform (These
materials are used in combination with distribution of moisture water)
5.
Emulsion binder Triethanolamine stearate, emulsifiers, glycerol Monostearate.
Preparation
Of Compacts:
Compact powders are prepared by
three methods. They are:
(a)
Wet
Method
(b)
Dry
Method
(c)
Damp
Method,
(a)
Wet Method: The basic material (i.e., powder),
colour and binders are formulated in the
form of paste with the help of water. Then the pastes are pressed into
moulds and slowly the products are dried by air. This method is not widely used,
as there is a possibility of producing cracks and other faults in the
preparation.
(b)
Dry Method: In this method, the basic materials
and binders are compressed in special presses
with the help of pressure. This method is carried out under controlled conditions.
Examples:
·
Mixture
of ammonia, stearic acid and starch.
·
Mixture
of stearic acid and starch
·
Mixture
of sodium stearate, lanolin and cetyl alcohol or
·
Mixture
of triethanolamine stearate, lanolin and cetyl alcohol.
(c)
Damp Method: This method is most widely used for commercial
purposes. The base powder, colour
and perfume are properly mixed to form a mixture. Then liquid binder i.e.,
aqueous mucilage or mucin rich emulsion (oil-in-water type) are added to the
mixture. Then it is properly blended until the desired plasticity of the
product is obtained. Screening of mixture is carried out followed by
compression by machine. Finally, the product is dried at elevated temperature.
Formula
1
(Without
Binder) - Quantity for 100 g
Talc
(slip character) 69 g
Kaolin
(covering materials) 18 g
Titanium
dioxide (covering materials) 8 g
zinc
stearate (slip character) 5 g
Color q. s
Perfume
(odour) q. s
Binder
(with Binder) q. s
gum
Arabic ( water-soluble Binder) 1 g
Glycerol
(emulsion Binder) 5 g
Water
(vehicle) 94 g
Preservatives q. s
Formula
2
(Without
Binder) Quantity for 100 g
Talc
(slip character) 79 g
Calcium
carbonate (absorbent) 9 g
zinc
oxide (covering materials) 7 g
c
(slip character) 5 g
Color q. s
Perfume
(odour) q. s
Binder
(with Binder) q. s
Gum
tragacanth ( water-soluble Binder) 2 g
Glycerol
monostearate (emulsion Binder) 6 g
Mineral
oil (oil binder) 4 g
Sorbitol 5 g
Water
(vehicle) 83 g
Preservatives q. s
Method: The method is same as that of face
powder but here binders are incorporated in the formulation.
3. Body
Powder/ Talcum Powder/ Dust Powders:
These powders are most widely used
preparation for multiple purposes. They contain covering materials, adhesives,
absorbency material, antiseptic and perfumes. The main function of body powder
is absorption of perspiration (sweat). Due to the presence of fat film in the
body powder, they adhere to the surface of the skin.
Properties:
·
They
should provide good slip character to the skin.
·
They
should provide cooling and lubrication effect to the skin.
·
They
should be able to prevent irritation of the skin.
Ingredients:
Ingredients which are used in the
formulation of body powders are as follows:
Ingredients with Example
1. Metallic compound: zinc stearate, aluminium stearate, magnesium carbonate(light),
precipitate calcium carbonate (chalk)
2. Antiseptic materials: Boric acid, chlorohexidine diacetate,
They
are incorporated in the formulation in order to prevent the growth of
microorganism which are responsible for
the development of
perspiration
(sweat) and odour.
3. Adsorbent material : Kaolin, magnesium carbonate, precipitate chalk, starch
4. Slip character: Talc,
zinc stearate
5. Adhesive materials: Kaolin, zinc oxide, magnesium stearate
Formula
-
Quantity for 100 g
Talc
(slip character) 75 g
Colloidal
kaolin (adhesive material) 10 g
Colloidal
silica (binding agent) 5 g
Magnesium carbonate (absorbent) 5 g
Aluminium
stearate 4 g
Boric
acid (antiseptic) 0.3 g
Perfume
(odour) 0.7 g
Method:
Initially perfume is mixed with
magnesium carbonate (absorbent) properly. This mixture is kept aside for some
time. This is mixture A.
Talc, colloidal kaolin, colloidal
silica, aluminium stearate and boric acid are mixed together. This is mixture
B.
Mixture A is added to mixture B and then mixing is carried out properly.
Then
the preparation is passed through a sieve.
Finally, the product is packed in
a suitable container.
Formulation:
Formula Quantity for 100 g
Talc
(slip character) 70 g
Calcium
carbonate (absorbent) 25 g
Zinc
stearate (slip character) 4 g
Boric
acid (antiseptic) 0.3 g
Perfume
oil (odour) 0.7 g
Method:
Perfume oil is mixed with calcium
carbonate (absorbent) properly. This mixture is kept aside for some time. This
is mixture A.
Talc, zinc stearate and boric acid
are mixed together. This is mixture B.
Mixture A is added to mixture B and
then mixing is carried out properly.
Then the preparation is passed
through a sieve.
Finally, the product is packed in a
suitable container.
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